SPLIT COLLAR Designed to provide a snug and clean fit around the
collar, the split collar also ensures the coat has a balanced lightweight effect on the neck and
shoulders which controls the foreparts from opening.
SHOULDER PAD The highest quality shoulder pads are used to mould and maintain the
shape and lines of the sleeve head.
CHEST PIECE The chest piece is made from two pieces of canvas to produce a better
shape for the chest and shoulder. One layer of felt is also attached to soften the chest piece and
add comfort to the wearer.
SLEEVE HEAD Felt and two layers of canvas are used to mould and maintain the shape
and lines of the sleeve head. The armholes are fixed by sewing together the outer fabric, inner
plies of floating chest canvas, shoulder pad and sleeve head wadding. This prevents stretching and
distortion in use, and a clean shoulder and true hanging sleeves for the life of the garment.
BIAS & STRAIGHT TAPES Tapes are used to support the seams and contribute to the
areas where manipulation is required to support the body shape, especially around the armhole area.
BRIDAL LINE This is where the lapel rolls. The bridal line tape is drawn to
compensate the difference between the chest and upper waist.
LAPEL & FACING A thin layer of fusing is used to achieve a much softer feel.
This fusing is also used in the outer breast welt, collar and sleeve cuff.
FRONT OF THE JACKET A floating chest piece made of two pieces of canvas cut on a
different bias is attached to a soft quality fusible interlining, and softened by a light felt
piece. Combined with straight bias tapes, this helps retain the look and performance of the front of
the jacket. The critical balance points on the back and lower armholes are taped when sleeves are
inserted to stop stretch and retain full drape and control of the sleeve. The lining is a luxury
quality that is unsurpassed in terms of lightness and shine.
SLEEVE LINING Sewn and fixed to the armhole of the coat (and not bagged into the
armhole lining), ensuring the lining is more durable and has a quality tailored finish.